By the numbers:
1. Ronon! Sulking and making Zelenka nervous, falling asleep meditating, being tender with Teyla, looking for reassurance from Sheppard...What's not to love about Ronon in this episode? Jason Momoa's grin is adorable and hot like a very hot thing.
2. Teyla being funny with Ronon. Teasing big-sister stuff and sweet flirty bits: I can see their relationship either way. Either way they're adorable together.
3. Zelenka! Lots and lots of Zelenka. Homing pigeon races? David Nykl's grin has much to recommend it as well.
4. Telepathic whale-like sea monsters. Again, what's not to love about that? Well, except that they can accidentally make your BRAIN EXPLODE.
5. Last but not least, the John and Rodney show in full swing. Of course they gotta take a jumper and check out the whale-things. Of course John has to see if Rodney can hear him by taunting him with Zelenka's intellect and calling him Meredith. Of course John has to go with Rodney to the bio lab. And as more than one person has pointed out, they might as well have been the only two people on the Daedalus. This makes me happy.
Canada, btw, ROCKS.